Sunday, April 26, 2009

11.5 days in Korea: The search for cherry blossoms


Even though we went to bed late but we got up early since we didn't want to waste any time. "When in Rome, do as the Romans do", so we asked the guesthouse owner where we could get the local breakfast. A small restaurant only few minutes away had simple but delicious food.


We hurried to town for Cherry Blossoms festival at Yeouido park. We were wondering when we got off at the Yeouido station whether we were at the right place because we saw only buildings. After asking a local, we continued walking. There was no sign of the fest, so we asked the 2nd local, who pointed to the opposite direction!!!! We had to go to the parliament building area.

In front of the parliament, we found only a construction site! Oh dear!!!! Desperately, we asked the 3rd local. He said there was no such festival. "The festival is only on the weekend, but you can go behind the building. There were many trees in blossom to see." How could we be so wrong???






And there it was; the crowd and ...the blossoms! The street behind the parliament  parallel to Hangang river had its own beauty. Cherry blossoms stretched as far as our eyes could see. There were not many people yet because the festival opened officially in the afternoon. There were lot of art pieces along the street, and all about flowers.










Along the way, there was lot of street food. We tried sticky rice cake with pumpkin, a pancake like filled with brown sugar and cinnamon (in the picture on the left). Those boosted our strength to walk up to a metro station.












The first thing we did in Insa-dong was to visit a tea house. Dawon Tea House in Kyung In museum had great tea and nice setting. It was pricey but worth it. We experienced that most of the tea houses are expensive in Korea. The herbal Sang-hwa tea was really really good. Our afternoon was a pleasant one: just strolling through Insa-dong, visiting from gallery to gallery. Our 2nd tea house, Yetchatjip, was cosy and their tea was ok.







In Korea, one must buy some famous Insam (Korean name for Ginseng) as souvenir. However, to buy it from a department store or a big shop was not our style ;). Thanks to "Seoul's best 100" booklet that we got from the tourist info at the airport, which gave us direction to Kyungdong Oriental Medicine market (Metro line 1, exit 3,4). We managed to find this Sang-hwa tea that we liked so much at the tea house this morning, but it was in powder form. The shop where we bought red ginseng generously gave us few handful of Ginseng candies! Yummy!




Just before getting in the metro station, our way to dinner, we saw a shop selling hopang (steamed round buns with vegetable or meat filling). We got one bun each. It was super delicious!


The dinner was grilled pork in a small restaurant near city hall. It was recommended by many people from Pantip forum. One lady staff took care of us very well. She taught us how to grill the food and even... how to eat it! She kept an eye on us every now now and then. When we left, it was their dinner time, and they offered us some of their food to try. We took couple of pictures with them, and left the place with a full stomach and smiles on our faces.

11.5 days in Korea: Follow royal footsteps in Seoul


Landed in Seoul at 7:14, the first thing we did, which has became part of our instincts, was to visit the Tourist information center. It was way to the end of the airport building in a quiet corner. There was nobody, ... and no staff!!! Oops.. ah! There was a note saying "Be right back", so we waited. Not for long, a friendly young lady came back to her seat quietly (I didn't even notice her). She handed out almost everything we asked for, plus two booklets; Travel Korea and Seoul's best 100. Visit this tourist office if you go to Korea!



We changed some euros to get half a million won.   Then, we spent some time trying to get a rental mobile phone. After we agreed to rent one and signed the paper, we tried to use internet. It only worked with an operator portal in Korean characters. Oops! Fortunately, they understood and let us cancel the deal. While Alex was dealing with the mobile phone, I got a T-Money card for 3000 won and topped it up with 27,000 won. We put so much money in because we thought to use it with the limousine bus to town which costed 9,000 won each. However, the cashier of the bus company didn't accept the T-Money.

After 40 min. we got off at Hapjeong station, and continued walking for another 10 mins to reach Kim's Guesthouse, our first accommodation in Korea. The first problem occurred. The owner admitted that he made a mistake with the booking. Thus, we wouldn't have a room for that night. Just before I screamed, he said "No worries. I will let you stay in my sister's house next door". Bad news turned out good, since we got upgraded from normal customers to guests of the house ˆ-ˆ and it was only 28,000 won for the first night instead of 38,000.


Despite of lack of sleep, after leaving all the bags in the room, we were ready to go. No tiredness nor jet-lag, but hunger! On the way to the metro station, we stopped at a small restaurant for breakfast. Our first Korean meal was Bibimbap (rice with vegetables, red sauce and sesame oil) and spicy tofu soup. They came with 6 side dishes. While Alex enjoyed his food using chopsticks, one guy came to tell that "no no no in Korea, spoon for rice. I speak little English". He kept checking us whether we did it right and from time to time repeated "spoon spoon", very nice of him.

We took a metro to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Finally, we could use the T-Money for the metro ride. However, the card can be used only for one person. What should we do with the 27,000 won in the card when the ride costs only 900??? Oops! We found a vending machine and got some chewing gum, paying with the T-Money. At least, we knew if we had money left in the card, we could take some sweets home. ;)

Before we went inside the Gyeongbokgung, there was a colourful guard changing ceremony in front of the main gate. The palace was huge and beautiful. While I was enjoying the scenery, Alex showed signs of jet-lag. However, his heart wanted to go on, only the body that acted a bit zombie like then. Each of us had a glass of iced green tea on the way to the next palace. Not so good but at least kept Alex awake a bit.



Visiting Changdeokgung palace that day was only possible with a guided tour, so we took the English one (More about what we saw can be seen in the photo album). We both agreed that this palace was more beautiful than the first one we saw. It is also a World heritage site.





After two of the five main palaces, we had enough of royal stuff. We went for dinner in Insadong. We had a super delicious vegetarian meal, recommend by one of the internet blogs we found. We had wrapped mushroom and vegetable soup with Chinese green pepper. And, I think, I don't need to mention anymore the side dishes!

It was not dark yet, so we headed to Namsan Seoul tower. Perhaps we could see the sunset and the night view of the city. We took a bus and got caught in a traffic jam. Missed the sunset and got off the bus too early. A young Korean heard our conversation, he told us to get on the same bus as him because he was heading to the tower with his mum! He carried a guitar which he planned to play and sing for his mum on the tower, real sweet boy! He also took care that we got up the tower. Only up there, he left us.

We both were tired but the night was still young, so we stopped at Dongdaemun market. It was a HUGE clothes market for both retail and wholesale. We just browsed around briefly, didn't buy anything. Before we got lost, better went back to the guesthouse to get some sleep!
   

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

11.5 days in Korea: The Beginning

เที่ยวครั้งก่อนยังเขียนไม่จบทั้งๆที่มีเรื่องเล่าอีกเยอะ ดันมาเขียนเรื่องใหม่อีกละ ของเก่าแปะไว้ก่อนนะ คราวนี้กะจะเขียนให้จบไม่รู่้จะทำได้แค่ไหน   แถมริมาเล่าซะตั้งแต่ขั้นเตรียมการ จะรอดมั๊ยเนี่ย
จริงๆแล้วไม่ได้คิดจะไปไหน เพราะก็รู้ๆกันอยู่ว่าเศรษฐกิจไม่ดี แต่จู่ๆก็มีโปรโมชั่นจาก KLM มาล่อลวง ดูไปดูมาหลายตลบ เห็นมีประเทศที่ไม่เคยไปกันทั้งคู่ แถมมีวันหยุดอีสเตอร์พอดี๊พอดี เลยจองซะเลย พอจองแล้วยังไงล่ะ ต่างคนต่างก็ไม่รู้ว่าที่เกาหลีมีอะไรให้ดูบ้าง รู้จักแต่...กิมจิ เฮ้อ...
เพื่อนๆและน้องสาวบอกว่าละครเกาหลีดังมากๆที่บ้านเรา ...เวรกรรม...ไม่รู้จักซักเรื่อง ตอนเด็กๆสมัยที่ยังรับประทานเนื้อและหมูอยู่ก็รู้จักร้านอาหารร้านนึง ชื่อว่าโซล คนขายเป็นคนเกาหลีจริงๆ พูดไทยได้สองสามคำเอง ตอนนั้นไม่รู้หรอกว่าโซลคืออะไร รู้อย่างเดียวว่าเนื้อย่างอร่อยมากๆ ไปหม่ำกันทุกเดือน จนร้านปิดหนีไป เสียดายแทบแย่
ตามปกติเวลาไปไหนก็ต้องพกหนังสือท่องเที่ยว โดยเฉพาะอย่างยิ่ง Lonely Planet แต่หนนี้พอไปอ่านรีวิวก่อนซื้อ อ้าว...ไหงผลรีวิวไม่ดีเลย มีหลายคนแนะนำให้ซื้อ Rough Guide แทน เลยได้ลองของใหม่คราวนี้เอง
พอได้หนังสือมาก็เป็นหน้าที่ของคนข้างกายเอาไปอ่าน เพราะเรามัวยุ่งอยู่กับเรื่องเรียนและทำการบ้าน หุ หุ... เลยให้คนอ่านทำการวางแผนคร่าวๆออกมาซะ ได้หน้าตาออกมาแบบนี้


พอได้แผนคร่าวๆ เราก็ทำหน้าที่เช็คตามเน็ทว่ามีใครเค้าไปแบบนี้บ้าง ดูในพันทิปส่วนใหญ่เค้าก็อยู่ที่โซลกัน ไม่ค่อยไปไกลๆ รึไม่ก็ไปตามรอยละครซึ่งเราไม่รู้จักสักกะเรื่อง เรื่องช้อปปิ้งก็ไม่ค่อยนิยมแบบชาวบ้านเค้า แต่ได้เรื่องร้านอาหารมาสองสามร้าน ฮ่าๆๆ ที่สำคัญคือได้เจอเพื่อนใหม่โดยตามลิ้งค์ในพันทิปมา คือคุณ Maeil ข้อมูลท่องเที่ยวเยอะดี มีเกร็ดเล็กเกร็ดน้อยด้วย แถมเที่ยวสไตล์คล้ายๆกันอีก คุณMaeilเคยไปสถานที่ที่เราวางแผนว่าจะไปกันด้วย เลยเข้าไปขออ่านซะทุกบล็อกที่คุณเค้าเขียนไว้ เสียดายบ้านไกลไม่งั๊นคงได้อุดหนุนหนังสือ ขอบคุณนะคะ
ก่อนไปก็จอง Guesthouse ในโซลไว้เฉพาะสองคืนแรก ป้องกันการเสียเวลาเพราะยังไม่รู้อิโหน่อิเหน่ เดี๋ยวไปเด๋อด๋า เพื่อนก็มาขู่ว่าระวังไม่มีที่พักนะเพราะเป็นช่วงดอกไม้บาน ก็เลยจองซะหน่อย ส่วนวันทีเหลือไปหาเอาดาบหน้า อีกอันที่ทำการจองล่วงหน้าคือที่พักคืนสุดท้ายเพราะแลกคะแนนมาจากการบินไทย หุ หุ ของฟรีต้องรีบคว้า

คนข้างๆ ทำการคำนวณเวลาเดินทางกะค่าเดินทางไว้อย่างดี พอถึงวันขึ้นเครื่องไม่ได้หยิบไปกรี๊ด .. กรรม..กำ...ไม่แบจริงๆ สรุปว่ารูปที่เห็นในบล็อกสองรูปนี้ ทุกอย่างวางอยู่บนโต๊ะที่บ้านตลอดการเดินทาง โชคดีที่อัลไซเมอร์ยังไม่กินและสมองยังมีรอยหยัก แผนการทั้งหมดเลยยังอยู่
วันก่อนขึ้นเครื่อง ข้างบ้านถามว่าไปได้เหรอได้ข่าวว่าเกาหลีส่งอะไรไปในอากาศ ...เออช่างเค้าเหอะ นั่นมันเกาหลีเหนือร้อก เราแค่ไปเฉียดๆมันคงไม่เป็นไร ไปกันเถอะ
We didn't think about going anywhere due to the recession. However, the offer from KLM was so tempting since it included some countries we had not been to. We had no plans yet for Easter, but now our Easter holiday planning started.
We didn't know much about Korea beside the famous Kimchi and Mobile TV! In any case, we needed a travel guide book. We usually use Lonely Planet but Korea LP got pretty poor reviews. Instead, we gave a try to Rough Guide with its 4-5 stars.
Alex read the book and created a draft plan as you can see from the first picture. I checked internet blogs and forum for more details. Thus, I found a few tips from here and there. Special thanks to Khun Maeil - his blog gave good tips!
We reserved accommodation only for the first 2 nights in Seoul and the last night before we left. Since we had never been to Korea, booking the first nights was for saving some time. The last night accommodation was just by luck since I got it for free from my Royal Orchid Plus points.
Alex also made some calculations on time traveling between the cities according to the plan, including travel expenses. However, all the papers as you can see in these 2 pictures were on his work table at home for the whole trip Luckily, he has not got Alzheimer and his brain has more gyn, so the whole plan was somewhere in there!
Off we went, no matter that North Korea had just launched the rocket. We won't go there!